Coat

Charles James

1947–48 · silk · Costume Institute

This coat alludes to the body at the bust and ribcage, then extends away from it with two deep reverse pleats at front and an unfitted and flaring back. The perfectly mounted sleeves are cut in one piece, without the undersleeve panel seen in custom tailored coats at the time, so their forward-angled curve occurs not with shaped panels but with the introduction of darts at the inner elbow. Though this is primarily a tailored garment, James introduces soft release darts, a dressmaking detail, at the bust.

Artist

Charles James

Date

1947–48

Medium

silk

Culture

American

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Costume Institute Benefit Fund, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, and Acquisitions Fund, 2013