Coat

Charles James

early 1950s · wool · Costume Institute

Like Paul Poiret’s capacious cocoon coats of the 1910s, this James design is meant to wrap around the wearer, completely concealing her figure. Constructed with exaggerated raglan sleeves and a center back seam but no side seams, the coat is draped to create a deep dolman and to taper to the hem. James claimed that the cut eliminated the need for fundamental changes in proportion, no matter his client’s shape, size, or height.

Artist

Charles James

Date

early 1950s

Medium

wool

Culture

American

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Costume Institute Benefit Fund, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, and Acquisitions Fund, 2013