Cocktail dress

Charles James

ca. 1944 · silk · Costume Institute

Although the bodice of this dress has center front, center back, and side seams, its second-skin fit was accomplished by molding the bust à calage (steaming in the shape) and using back shoulder darts. The body of the dress has center front and center back seams. A long dart curves from under the arm over the front hipbone and into the low front cowl. With its high neckline, shoulder line extending into a cap sleeve, and sheathlike fit, this James design suggests the exotic influence of the Chinese qi pao, a style promoted at the time by another American couturier, Mainbocher, on his client Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor.

Artist

Charles James

Date

ca. 1944

Medium

silk

Culture

American

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Polaire Weissman Fund, 1997