Evening dress

Charles James

1947 · silk · Costume Institute

In the postwar period James was increasingly drawn to the muted sophistication of contrasting materials of differing luster. In this evening dress’s monochromatic duet of blacks, the dull sheen of jersey juxtaposes with the high shine of satin. Only after the eye has absorbed the nuanced surface contrasts is the rich geometry revealed. James eliminated the side seams, and the angled satin panel that constitutes the front bodice wraps over the shoulder to form an oblique panel across the back, resulting in an astonishing exposure of skin. Bill Cunningham likened this spiral of inky black fabrics to a stick of licorice.

Artist

Charles James

Date

1947

Medium

silk

Culture

American

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Gift of Mrs. William Woodward Jr., 1964