Evening dress

Gilbert Adrian

1946 · rayon, glass, plastic (cellulose acetate) · Costume Institute

Beginning with his first collection in 1942, the word most frequently associated with Adrian’s designs in the contemporary fashion press was dramatic. Adrian brought the unmistakable glamour of his film costume to the wardrobes of American women but remained mindful that his clothes must fit the needs of real life. They had drama but also an understated elegance, a balance he achieved with simple, strong lines and bold, inventive embellishments. Adrian was confident in the ability of American designers to put forward a distinct perspective, and he played an important role in advancing American fashions that diverged from Paris’s model in terms of design sensibility and approach to production. Years before ready-to-wear fashions were common in France, innovative American designers were producing ready-to-wear that exhibited the impeccable craftsmanship typically associated with custom-made clothing. His own ready-to-wear label, Adrian Original, featured skillfully cut, draped, and finished garments such as this sleek evening dress embroidered with a Greco-Roman-inspired wave pattern in gold sequins.

Artist

Gilbert Adrian

Date

1946

Medium

rayon, glass, plastic (cellulose acetate)

Culture

American

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Gould Family Foundation Gift, in memory of Jo Copeland, 2019