Evening ensemble

Yves Saint Laurent|Yves Saint Laurent

fall/winter 1972–73 · a,c) silk, plastic, metal, rhinestones; b) wool, silk; d) metal, rhinestones, faux pearl · Costume Institute

Although heavily beaded silk jersey bodices from the late 19th century survive in The Costume Institute collection, the earliest couture manifestation of the cardigan for evening is generally ascribed to Mainbocher's beaded sweater sets of the early 1946s. His design was a response to the chilly rooms that were a consequence of the fuel rationing of the war years. Saint Laurent's "cardigan" is in fact not a sweater, but rather a trompe l'oeil tour de force of the embroiderer's art. Beaded to suggest the motives and ribbing of a fair isle patterned cardigan, the untailored jacket is worn over an informal evening pant ensemble.

Artist

Yves Saint Laurent|Yves Saint Laurent

Date

fall/winter 1972–73

Medium

a,c) silk, plastic, metal, rhinestones; b) wool, silk; d) metal, rhinestones, faux pearl

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Gift of Thomas L. Kempner, 2006