Ensemble

Yohji Yamamoto

fall/winter 1995–96 · (a) wool, synthetic fiber, cotton, plastic; (b) nylon, (c) wool, synthetic fiber, cotton · Costume Institute

Yohji Yamamoto imbued the Japanese avant-garde deconstructionist approach to tailoring with a more romantic, historicist vision, as in this bustle coatdress with skirt with drawstring gathers, which he presented for fall/winter 1995–96. The black-hued collection mixed feminine dress elements from the late nineteenth century such as the bustle with masculine tailoring accents from the Edwardian era, giving rise to a new silhouette, which embodies the concept of Walter Benjamin's Tigersprung (tiger's leap), fashion's leap into the past to create an ever-changing present.

Artist

Yohji Yamamoto

Date

fall/winter 1995–96

Medium

(a) wool, synthetic fiber, cotton, plastic; (b) nylon, (c) wool, synthetic fiber, cotton

Culture

Japanese

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Gould Family Foundation Gift, in memory of Jo Copeland, 2020