Jacket

Maison Margiela|Martin Margiela

spring/summer 2000 · polyester, cotton · Costume Institute

Martin Margiela questioned fashion's notions of gender, size and time in his spring/summer 2000 collection, which was called "Stereotypes," and departed from standardized or stereotypical garments such as the blazer, the T-shirt, the trench coat and smoking vest, which were enlarged by 200%, the equivalent of an Italian size 78. The garments were constructed in an industrial manner. Surrealist details were added to add to the jacket, such as this XXXL powder puff inscribed with "Modèle Déposé- Paris," referring to the standardization and of garments, sizes and bodies by the Parisian fashion industry. In his "détournement" of an XXXL man’s smoking jacket into a woman’s dress, Margiela did not just criticize the fashion system but opened up new avenues of thought.

Artist

Maison Margiela|Martin Margiela

Date

spring/summer 2000

Medium

polyester, cotton

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Gould Family Foundation Gift, in memory of Jo Copeland, 2019