Ensemble

Demna Gvasalia|House of Balenciaga

fall/winter 2016–17 · (a) wool, cupro, synthetic; (b) wool, cupro, synthetic, metal; (c) silk, mother-of-pearl; (d, e) leather, synthetic; (f) metal, synthetic · Costume Institute

Demna Gvasalia, cofounder of the Paris fashion collective Vetements, was appointed creative director of Balenciaga in 2015. At Vetements, a label known for innovative street wear, designers work collaboratively, focusing on key garments that can be worn for multiple seasons. This approach has influenced Gvasalia’s work at Balenciaga and parallels founder Cristóbal Balenciaga’s practice of reworking and refining a favored silhouette over a period of years. This suit recalls the house’s legacy of impeccable tailoring, reimagining it for a contemporary context. It is designed to subtly influence the deportment of the wearer, with shoulder seams placed toward the front and padded hips. The resulting posture recalls the distinctive bearing of a 1950s couture model— a concave stance that conveyed an attitude of haute sophistication. Gvasalia’s design reveals his interest in exploring how clothing can shape the wearer’s attitude and perception of the body.

Artist

Demna Gvasalia|House of Balenciaga

Date

fall/winter 2016–17

Medium

(a) wool, cupro, synthetic; (b) wool, cupro, synthetic, metal; (c) silk, mother-of-pearl; (d, e) leather, synthetic; (f) metal, synthetic

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2016