Ensemble

Raf Simons|House of Dior

spring/summer 2013 · wool, silk, leather · Costume Institute

This 21st century take on Christian Dior’s iconic “Bar Suit” from 1947 gives a masculine twist to the original, often seen as the epitome of classical hourglass femininity because of its corseted waist and full bosom and skirt. A double-breasted tuxedo jacket takes the place of the single-breasted jacket and sharp-cut cigarette trousers replace the padded skirt. With this design statement, Simons empowers the 21st century woman with a more business-like attitude, ready to go out and conquer. The corseted waist and peplum of the jacket nevertheless show the alignment of Simons to the lineage of Dior’s New Look. This silhouette was the first of Belgian designer Raf Simons’ first ready-to-wear silhouettes for the house of Dior for spring/summer 2013, combining different elements of the venerable couture house’s heritage: it celebrates the New Look but also nods to ‘Le Smoking’ (1966) by Yves Saint Laurent, who briefly succeeded Christian Dior (1957-1960).

Artist

Raf Simons|House of Dior

Date

spring/summer 2013

Medium

wool, silk, leather

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Gift of Christian Dior Couture, 2015