Clematis textile

Cheney Brothers|Associated Artists

1883–1900 · Silk, woven and printed · The American Wing

Notice how the flowers on this textile fade in and out of the background. The clematis operate as impressions rather than direct representations. This effect is created by the use of a sophisticated weaving technique that created fabrics called "shadow silks" by designer Candace Wheeler. They were made by printing a pattern on the vertical threads (warp) of a fabric before the fabric was woven. Once the horizontal threads (weft) were pulled over the warp threads, the printed image was blurred and softened. This example expresses an atmospheric quality similar to French Impressionist painting that was popular during the period. Wheeler, the founder of her textile firm Associated Artists, was both an artistic visionary and a resourceful business woman dedicated to the cause of female economic independence.

Artist

Cheney Brothers|Associated Artists

Date

1883–1900

Medium

Silk, woven and printed

Culture

American

Department

The American Wing

Credit line

Gift of Mrs. Boudinot Keith, 1928