Dress

Gilbert Adrian

1942–52 · silk, metal · Costume Institute

Amy Spindler commented in the New York Times, "Before the emergence of the Seventh Avenue designer, an American fashion force rivaled, and even eclipsed, anything that sauntered down a Paris runway: the Hollywood costumer." During World War II, as increasing numbers of women entered the workforce, fashion became more sober. Adrian responded to the new aesthetic by offering this classic black dress. The Hollywood "touch" is present in the encircling bands of self fabric that, detached from the surface of the dress, float freely and settle lasso-style over the shoulders, looping down to tie at the waist. Although Adrian never made a Western, he liked to explore the Southwest. Here, the reference to ranch life emerges from a quintessential urban garment, suggesting both vigorous masculine activity and a surprising, if subtle, bondage.

Artist

Gilbert Adrian

Date

1942–52

Medium

silk, metal

Culture

American

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Gift of Patricia Pastor and Barry Friedman, 2012