Walking suit

J. Hartjen

ca. 1905 · wool, silk, fur · Costume Institute

The interplay of the textures from the wool, silk, and fur seen here make this walking suit a quintessential example of the Belle Époque interest in the play of light on various surface treatments. The reversal of wool and velvet patterning from the bodice to the skirt shows great forethought, as does the choice of chinchilla cloth, which, with its glimmering silver hairs, adds to the light-reflective qualites of the garment. The textures and faux interior vest are signature elements of early 20th-century design and add to the presentation of this high-quality American piece. Although the vestee shown with this suit is not by Hartjen, it is of a style that would have been worn with the piece.

Artist

J. Hartjen

Date

ca. 1905

Medium

wool, silk, fur

Culture

American

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Seth Thayer, 1967