Jacket

Elsa Schiaparelli

winter 1938–39 · wool, fur, plastic · Costume Institute

A classic example of Schiaparelli's fascination with unusual closures, this glamorous jacket was worn by style arbiter Millicent Rogers, one of Schiaparelli's most enthusiastic clients. From the winter 1938-39 zodiac collection, the buttons are an unexpected touch for such a chic jacket. Although it is not known what the imagery on the buttons was meant to be, the bearded face is reminiscent of Atlas, the Greek god who, as a punishment from Zeus, holds the heavens on his shoulders. The theme of that season's collection was zodiac, and included various references to the celestial realm, some more subtle than others, as these buttons illustrate. Schiaparelli often used closures as a way to express her creativity and used artists such as Jean Clement and Roger Jean-Pierre to execute her designs. This jacket is also exemplar of Schiaparelli's artistic design aesthetic, seen in particular by the asymmetric tucking and gathering and the oversized fur collar.

Artist

Elsa Schiaparelli

Date

winter 1938–39

Medium

wool, fur, plastic

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta-Ramos, 1955