Festive Dress from Qalamoun

Unknown

ca. 1900–early 20th century · Cotton, silk, metal wrapped thread; plain weave, block-printed, roll- printed, embroidered · Islamic Art

This white dress or thob belongs to a group of festive garments from Syria. A widening skirt with rich embroidery and long colorful triangular (winged) sleeves with tassels hanging down at the edges enhance the wearer’s movements during dance. Such dresses are associated with festivals and weddings and the weaving traditions of Qalamoun, a mountainous region in northwest Syria near the Lebanese border. Such dresses from Qalamoun were worn over a pair of decorated trousers. The triangular sleeve section is made in a different fabric then the main white cloth, which creates the typical colorful movements during dance. Here, two printed cotton fabrics were used, one red floral (on the wearer’s frontal right side), the other in green-white stripes with red patterning (on the wearer’s frontal left side; both types of fabrics are reversed on the backside). A colorful tassel in the same green-red color palette hangs down at each end of the triangular sleeves. The embroidery is commonly applied on the skirt part. This example belongs to the group with a niche-like panel, with a pointed arch at the waistline. This section of the panel is filled with repeating colorful floral rosette-like motifs. These are spaciously applied. Motifs of cypress trees line up on top of the triangular arch.

Artist

Unknown

Date

ca. 1900–early 20th century

Medium

Cotton, silk, metal wrapped thread; plain weave, block-printed, roll- printed, embroidered

Department

Islamic Art

Credit line

Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1953