Evening jacket

Elsa Schiaparelli|House of Schiaparelli

fall 1938 · silk, metallic thread, plastic (cellulose nitrate, phenolic resin, polyvinyl acetate, epoxy resin) · Costume Institute

Schiaparelli's dinner jackets changed the outline of women's fashion from soft to hard, from feminine to masculine during the mid- to late-1930s. The basic silhouette, which comprised wide shoulders and a narrow waist, first appeared in her Autumn/Winter 1931-1932 collection entitled 'Wooden Soldiers'. It was inspired by the Indo-Chinese costumes featured in the 'Exposition Coloniale' in Paris in 1931. The extended shoulders, achieved through padding, became hugely influential in Hollywood. During a trip to America, Schiaparelli commented, "In Hollywood, one special item of popularity had preceded me - that of the padded shoulders. I had started them to give women a slimmer waist. They proved the Mecca of the manufacturers. Joan Crawford had adopted them and molded her silhouette on them for years to come. They became emphasized and monstrous. Adrian took them up with overwhelming enthusiasm."

Artist

Elsa Schiaparelli|House of Schiaparelli

Date

fall 1938

Medium

silk, metallic thread, plastic (cellulose nitrate, phenolic resin, polyvinyl acetate, epoxy resin)

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Gift of Mrs. J.R. Keagy, 1974