Ensemble

Jean Paul Gaultier

1994 · cotton, ink · Costume Institute

President Eisenhower's famous idiom "the military-industrial complex" is the starting point of this Gaultier outfit. Olive-green and cargo pants suggest the military or paramilitary. But the military rigor is impugned by indefatigable graffiti. Graffiti--that paradigm for art historian Kirk Varnedoe of high art informed by low art--defaces the military appearance. A medium of defilement and of language--often slightly vulgar in this instance--sheathes the facade of the proper soldier. Given Gaultier's many ingenious permutations of sailors, his cognate transfiguration of the army man is hardly surprising.

Artist

Jean Paul Gaultier

Date

1994

Medium

cotton, ink

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Gift of Richard Martin, 1994