Ensemble

John Galliano|John Galliano

spring/summer 1985 · (a) wool, cotton, horn, (b) cotton, mother-of-pearl, (c) cotton, mother-of-pearl, (d) cotton, mother-of-pearl · Costume Institute

John Galliano’s approach to historical dress and non-Western types of dress echoes the magpie approach of the nineteenth-century figure of the ragpicker who found beauty in urban detritus. The collection "Afghanistan repudiates Western ideals" was inspired by a 1920s Punch caricature of a furious Afghan native jumping on a Western bowler hat, and referred to the melting pot of Eastern (Hindu, Muslim) cultures Galliano was surrounded by in his studio in London’s East End. In a self-referential gesture, he revisited elements from his 1984 graduation show, such as hems buttoned up and down and outsized sleeves, and introduced muslins in saffron or dark reds, dyed “the colour of dried blood” and bold Madras stripes.

Artist

John Galliano|John Galliano

Date

spring/summer 1985

Medium

(a) wool, cotton, horn, (b) cotton, mother-of-pearl, (c) cotton, mother-of-pearl, (d) cotton, mother-of-pearl

Culture

British

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2020