Jacket

Moschino Couture|House of Moschino|Franco Moschino

fall/winter 1989–90 · acetate, nylon, metal · Costume Institute

The "Ace of Hearts" blazer by Italian designer Franco Moschino characteristically deconstructs the high-mindedness of fashion by adding a generous, celebratory touch to his designs. Like a cartoon or an emoji, the Ace of Hearts is an easily recognizable icon, its symbolic meaning of love, happiness and celebrations accessible to all. As a postmodern designer, Moschino champions the “camp” sensibility, which upends notions of high versus low, and good taste versus bad taste, as described by Susan Sontag in her seminal essay "Notes on Camp" (1964), which Moschino had printed on glass in his office. Through his democratic designs, Moschino expresses the ideas captured in Sontag's writings that "Camp taste is, above all, a mode of enjoyment, of appreciation - not judgment. Camp is generous. It wants to enjoy."

Artist

Moschino Couture|House of Moschino|Franco Moschino

Date

fall/winter 1989–90

Medium

acetate, nylon, metal

Culture

Italian

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Gould Family Foundation Gift, in memory of Jo Copeland, 2019