Coat

Martin Margiela|Maison Margiela

spring/summer 2009 · polyester, acrylic, silk · Costume Institute

An accumulation of glossy blonde wigs and hair extensions are assembled like objets trouvés in this coat by Maison Martin Margiela for spring/summer 2009. The collection revisited former design concepts, such as jackets made of discarded costume wigs for the Artisanal line of fall/winter 2005–4. The Artisanal concept is central to the philosophy of the house: one-of-a kind, handmade objects made from repurposed or cheap textiles and found objects, show that luxury resides not so much in the preciosity or opulence of the materials, but that the artisanship, time and effort which went into the garment are what makes it haute couture. By paying tribute to the human hand and process rather than the value of the material, Margiela deconstructs the prescriptive concepts at the heart of the Parisian couture tradition, usually hiding traces of construction or use. He thereby inscribes his own avant-garde collections into a longstanding tradition. Hair and wigs are a recurring choice of material for Margiela, who previously integrated wigs from theatre costume cast-offs, flickering between glamour and the abject. Known for his critical position concerning celebrity, fashion and beauty, he showed the jacket on an anonymous veiled model, contrasting anonymity with the idea of celebrity and supermodels like Kate Moss, who wore this coat on magazine covers

Artist

Martin Margiela|Maison Margiela

Date

spring/summer 2009

Medium

polyester, acrylic, silk

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2016