Ensemble

Artisanal|Maison Margiela|John Galliano

fall/winter 2015–16 · (a) synthetic, silk, metal; (b, c) leather, silk, metal, synthetic · Costume Institute

In this dress for Maison Margiela, John Galliano quoted Cristobal Balenciaga’s work, but employed a synthetic fabric that provided the stiffness, volume, and fluid line of the Spanish designer's favored silk gazar. The designs of Balenciaga and Galliano often achieve dramatically different shapes when viewed from varying perspectives. In this gown, the open, petal-shaped form seen in profile resolves into a smooth curtain at the front and soft waves at the back. The deep-purple bow at center back is an additional reference point, with its allusion to the knotted obi-sash of the kimono.

Artist

Artisanal|Maison Margiela|John Galliano

Date

fall/winter 2015–16

Medium

(a) synthetic, silk, metal; (b, c) leather, silk, metal, synthetic

Culture

French

Department

Costume Institute

Credit line

Gift of Maison Margiela, in honor of Harold Koda, 2016