Sautoir

Marcus and Co.

ca. 1908 · Gold, opal, and enamel · The American Wing

This superb sautoir, consisting of a multi-strand gold foxtail-link chain and a large pendant opal, is marked by the New York firm of Marcus & Co., whose reputation at its prime rivaled that of Tiffany & Co. Herman Marcus (1828–99), a German–born and Dresden–trained jeweler, arrived in New York in 1850 and worked for a number of prestigious firms before establishing Marcus & Co. in 1892. Following his death, the company continued under the direction of his two sons, George Elder Marcus and William Marcus. The magnificent drop-shaped black opal, with its textured surface and striations, is enclosed in a surround of enameled gold iris blossoms and leaves that continues onto the back of the pendant. This inventive design reflects the Arts & Crafts aesthetic and parallels the naturalistic work of Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848–1933).

Artist

Marcus and Co.

Date

ca. 1908

Medium

Gold, opal, and enamel

Culture

American

Department

The American Wing

Credit line

Purchase, Barrie A. and Deedee Wigmore Foundation Gift, 2015